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» by John Mallett «

You don’t have to like soda to like making it. There is the little matter of profitability. Soft drinks are assessed no excise tax, they are ready to consume after a brief day of production, they cost pennies to make, and they can be sold for a comfortable margin (see "Pop Culture: Selling Soda").
Brewpubs already provide a multitude of soft drinks to their patrons including iced teas, lemonades, juice drinks, coffee, and mainstream, commercially prepared carbonated sodas. Why not make these drinks your own? Every brewery already has all the equipment needed to produce a unique product, and the small production runs that are possible in a pub allow for creative experimental formulations.

While most brewpubs limit their soft-drink production to root beer, there are many other types of beverages that can be created easily. Extracts are readily available for such varied flavors as ginger beer, cream soda, lemongrass strawberry tea, and honeydew basil mint. Most of the suppliers of these extracts have on-staff technical personnel to help guide the potential producer through the pitfalls of pop production.
Most carbonated offerings sold in the restaurant industry are of the 5+1, also known as premix, type. Syrup provided by Coke or Pepsi is diluted at the point of use in a ratio of one part syrup to five parts carbonated water. The syrup is pumped from a Cornelius cylinder or a bag-in-the-box container to the beverage gun. At the gun, carbonated water, which is produced on-site, is mixed in the proper proportions with the syrup and dispensed directly into the glass. The ratio of syrup to water is controlled at the bar by setting the metering screw on the gun assembly. The proportions are checked with a syrup separator and Brix cup. Asking your soda service representative for a brief lesson in the proportioning can be very educational.
Postmix sodas are provided in a ready-to-use form and need no carbonated water addition. Postmix sodas are becoming increasingly rare in today’s soda market.

Premix 5+1-type soda syrups can be produced in any kitchen. Equipment required includes a large pot, a stove, and some type of container for dispensing. Cornelius kegs work best for this type of product.
Postmix-type beverages require larger-volume vessels to produce a similar final volume. A kettle, heat exchanger, and serving tank are all that is required to produce postmix soda. After the product is mixed and carbonated it can be transferred into clean kegs for storage and eventual dispense.
If you desire to dispense your product at a different carbonation level than your other gun-dispensed products, then this postmix option is required.

Any soda is composed of six basic ingredients: water, a sweetening source, acid, some type of preservative, flavor extracts, and carbon dioxide. Additional ingredients such as coloring agents may also be used.
As professional brewers we are all aware of the profound effects that water exerts on beer. Although water is the majority ingredient in sodas, differences in water account for a much lower flavor contribution. The primary water factors to be considered in soda production are calcium and magnesium levels. Excessive levels of either of these two ions can contribute a bitter character and inhibit flavor depth in the product.
Softening the water used for soda by removing these ions can help to improve flavor. Municipally supplied water commonly contains chlorine and possibly fluorine. These may negatively affect flavor of the product. It is recommended that they be filtered out through the use of a carbon filter. Many brewpubs have inadequate water filtration for this task. Check with a reputable filter supplier to assure that your contact times are adequate for your flow-rate requirements. Additionally, regular backflushing is required for most carbon filters to operate properly.

In many ways the choice of sweetening agents used for soda production is made in Washington, D.C. The sugar lobby is a strong force in national politics. The sugar lobby has successfully maintained foreign sugar tariffs, which assure artificially inflated domestic sugar prices. Because of these high prices, the domestic corn wet milling industry has developed alternatives to cane and beet sugars.
High fructose corn syrup (HFCS) is produced by splitting corn starch with acids, enzymes, or both. The spectrum of sugars produced can be controlled, which is why there are multiple types of HFCS available on the market today. Type 55 consists of 55 percent fructose and 45 percent glucose and heavy sugars. Type 42, as the name suggests, contains 42 percent fructose. Different sugars present different relative sweetness levels.
Fructose (fruit sugar) is nearly twice as sweet as sucrose (cane sugar), which is sweeter than glucose (dextrose). Fructose and glucose are both single-unit sugars. Sucrose is composed of one glucose bonded to one fructose. Maltose (malt sugar) consists of two glucose sugars bonded together.
Because of the different sweetness levels given by the different sugars, it is important to be aware of what you are purchasing for your sugar source. Cane sugar is preferred in most sodas; its character is described as inducing an immediate rush of flavor. In contrast HFCS imparts a greater contribution of body to the beverage. Most of the large soda manufactures in the United States use the less expensive HFCS. In Europe, where sugar prices are subsidized, soda makers are more likely to use cane or beet sugar. HFCS is quite viscous and prone to crystallization and is commonly stored and used hot. For large users HFCS can cost half to two-thirds as much as cane sugar.
Other sweetener sources can be used as well. Common additional carbohydrate sources used in soft drinks include honey, molasses, heavy corn syrup, malt extract, and even concentrated fruit. It is also possible to use non-carbohydrate sweeteners to produce "diet" beverages. Aspartame (Nutra-Sweet) can be used in the levels of 0.03 to 0.05 percent. Brewers are familiar with the Balling and Plato scales, which measure dissolved solids in liquid. Brix is basically the same scale as Balling and Plato. Total sweetener levels for sodas are commonly 10° to 14° Brix. One pound of sugar added to one gallon of water will produce a 12° Brix solution. Likewise 6.25 gallons of water mixed with 50 pounds of granulated sugar will produce eight gallons of 50° Brix syrup. Type 55 HFCS weighs in at a hefty 75° Brix, type 42 at 71° Brix.

Acids are used in soda production for a number of reasons. Foods that are acidic are less likely to spoil. Acids additionally enhance flavors of some types of sodas, especially citrus-derived products. They can help cut through the perceived sweetness in a product with a tart, refreshing taste. The most commonly used acid in soda production is citric acid, although phosphoric and malic acids are also employed. Citric acid has a character that can be described as slightly fruity. Malic and phosphoric acids are somewhat drier in character. Colas use phosphoric acid in their formulation because citric acid would bring out unwanted citric notes in the beverage.
Malic acid is commonly used in products formulated with berry flavors. Most soda producers carry only one type of acid in inventory. For the majority of brewpubs, the best choice is citric. Some products require less acidic character than others. Cream soda, birch beer, and root beer are classically lower-acid products. The rate of addition for these beverages can be as low as 0.2 ounces of citric acid per six gallons of finished product (or one gallon of 5+1 syrup). Berry flavors will use about 0.85 ounces and citrus flavors 1.2 ounces for similar volumes. In colas 0.3 ounces of 85 percent phosphoric acid is a recommended addition.

Sodas can and will spoil from microbial action. For this reason various preservation treatments are used in soft-drink production. Pasteurization is one method used. However, this option is beyond the means of most small producers. Preservation agents that can be used include sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate.
The FDA limits the amount of preservation agents allowed in foodstuffs. When producing a soft drink you must not exceed 0.1 percent by weight for all preservatives used. If you were to use even this amount, the flavor of the preservatives could be perceived as a chemical-like taste. For this reason it is recommended that total levels be close to 0.05 percent. This is equivalent to 0.4 ounces per six gallons of finished product.
The choice of what preservative to use depends on the pH of the beverage. Products with pH below 3.5 should use sodium benzoate. Those above 4.5 should use potassium sorbate, although producing soda with a pH higher than 4.5 is not recommended because of problems with stabilization. For those between 3.5 and 4.5, you may want to use a blend of benzoate and sorbate. It should be stressed that these compounds only inhibit the growth of micro-organisms; they do not kill them. If you have product that contains higher levels of contamination, no amount of preservatives will prevent spoilage. As is the case with producing all food products, good manufacturing practice should be followed.
Benzoate and sorbate act in different ways to inhibit growth. Sorbate is most effective against molds, while benzoate works best against yeast spoilers. The recommendation for brewery-produced soft drinks from one formulation guru: "The product should be below pH 4.2 and use only benzoate." When using sodium benzoate it is important to mix it into the solution for at least 15 minutes before adding the citric or phosphoric acid. Otherwise, benzoic acid will form. If this occurs, it will retard the anti-microbial effect of the solution.
Some brewpubs have produced sodas without preservatives. If you choose this option, monitor carefully to guard against possible spoilage. It is strongly recommended that preservatives be used to lower the chance of spoilage. Regardless of what approach is used, it is the producer’s duty to prevent spoiled product from ever reaching the market. Every brewer should be well aware that sugar solutions are a great media for the growth of micro-organisms.

Flavor extracts are responsible for giving sodas their distinctive taste. Coke and Pepsi fiercely guard the formulation of this critical component of their products. There are many manufacturers of extracts, and most are happy to provide samples and advice to assist in the formulation of new products.
Blending extracts together can produce unique and flavorful products. Extensive trial and error seems to be the preferred formulation method. To assure a great product be prepared to have your friends taste a lot of samples.
When formulating soda remember that an excessively flavorful product can be perceived by the consumer as less drinkable. Soda formulation can be thought of as a balancing act among flavor, sugar, and acid.

Carbonation gives life to any beverage, and soda is no exception. Soda carbonation levels may vary from a high of four volumes for ginger ale and colas to a low of two volumes for some fruit-flavored beverages. Most other beverages, including root beer, commonly contain about three volumes of CO2. Beer fermented at atmospheric pressure and 66° F contains about one volume of CO2. Boiled water has effectively had all CO2 driven out of solution. If you attempt to carbonate a soda to a given level, it may take significantly longer to do so than it would for a similar volume of beer. One advantage to premix products is that they require no carbonation. The still syrup is mixed with a carbonated water source. One disadvantage is that all products served from the gun are equally gassy.

Some sodas also include other ingredients in their formulation. Carmel color is used to darken some root beers and colas. Foam enhancers are present in some products, especially root beers and cream sodas, to promote a stable head for visual appeal. Sodium citrate acts to buffer the large quantities of citric acid used in some orange- and lemon-flavored products. Without this addition the product would taste exceedingly tart. Caffeine is used in many products, especially colas. Caffeine has no flavor contribution but provides an energy boost and is mildly addictive. The FDA specifies allowable caffeine levels, and common use is about one gram per six gallons of finished product.

To prepare premix type 5+1 syrups make the heavy syrup in a large pot. If you choose to use granulated (cane) sugar, be careful not to burn the sugar on the bottom of the pot. Remember, too, that the heavy syrup that you will be producing will boil at a very high temperature. Use all appropriate safety precautions to prevent injury from this dangerously hot liquid. The syrup is then allowed to cool and is mixed with the appropriate extracts directly in the dispense container.
To produce postmix beverage, make a sugar solution in the brew kettle by mixing hot water with sugar. If any sugar is on the bottom of the vessel, do not have the heat on the kettle or you will create the ultimate in kettle-cleaning nightmares.
Acids and preservatives can be added at this time as well. Run the solution through the clean heat-exchanger to a serving or bright tank. Flavor extracts can be added to this tank, or if you desire to produce multiple flavors in one production run, add different flavors to individual kegs. Carbonate the liquid to desired levels in the tank. If you have opted for storage in kegs, rack the beverage into clean kegs. Dispensing premix soda is very similar to dispensing beer. Product must be moved with proper pressures to prevent gas breakout and the resultant foaming.
Many of the flavor extracts are very volatile. Flavor transmission from the soda to the beverage tubing and into other products is not uncommon. Soda can taint the beverage lines and any other products that may subsequently be poured through such a system. If you opt to pour soda through your draft system, be prepared to dedicate those lines permanently to dispensing soda.
Soda production can provide a unique product with high profit potential to any brewpub operation. There are ample technical resources to guide any brewer to produce such beverages.

John Mallett is president of Saaz Brewing Equipment & Services. He was formerly head brewer at Old Dominion Brewing Co.

Want more info?

One of the best sources for information about soda formulation an suppliers can be found in the Beverage Industry (magazine) Annual Manual. The cost for this publication is $55. Contact Joanne Juda at Stagnito Publishing Co. in Northbrook, Ill. at (847) 205-5660. This publication contains sections on troubleshooting, product formulation, and industry suppliers.
USP (food grade) acids and preservatives can usually be purchased through a local chemical company or directly from an extract company. Sugar can be purchased from SYSCO or a similar food-supply company that already delivers grocery items to the brewpub's kitchen.
Most extract companies maintain technical personnel to assist with questions. Extract-supply companies include:

• Bickford Laboratories Inc.: (216) 531-6006
• California Brand Flavors: (800) 348-0111
• Charles Boggini Co.: (860) 742-2652
• Northwestern Extract: (800) 466-3034
• Virginia Dare Extract Co., Inc.: (800) 847-4500
• Weber Flavors: (800) 558-9078

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